Dudou

She guibbyl dy eaddeeyn Sheenagh tradishoonagh eh yn dudou. T'eh coodaghey toshiaght y cholbey as, hoshiaght, v'eh er ny cheau myr fo-lheiney lesh troyn lheeys echey. Rish foshley yn Çheen, t'eh ry-gheddyn keayrtyn ayns fassan Sheenagh noa-emshiragh as y Theihll Heear myr lheiney gyn muinneel as bloose holter.
Ennym
[reagh | reagh y bun]Ayns Sheenish Henndeeagh, ren 兜 çheet er sorçh bayrn caggee ny hud.[1] Roish lhiasaghey yn dudou, hie meanal yn ockle er ny vooadaghey myr coodaghey ny cruinnaghey red myr hud, bussal mwannal, ny mynjeig skeaylt.[2][n 1] Myr shen, foddee dùdōu meanal "filtag builg" ny "coodagh builg,"[3][4] çheet er yn ymmyd leah echey dy lheanaghey ny keeaghyn as, ayns lheeys Sheenagh tradishoonagh, dy reayll qi y vuilg.Goaill ymmyd jeh ny cowraghyn cheddin, t'eh enmyssit doudu[2][5] ny doudou.[6][n 2] She y lhieggan beggid eh yn lhieggan jerrinagh as, er y chooid smoo, t'eh ymmydit da ny dudouyn ta ceaut lesh paitçhyn Sheenagh.[8]
Ny h-enmyn Sheenagh eigsoylagh echey, er y chooid smoo t'ad faagit gyn çhyndaays.[9] Ayns farraneyn-fys Sheenagh, ta'n dudou er ny vee-hyndaa myr "bann builg",[9][10] ta çheet ny s'menkey er ymmodee saaseyn elley, goaill stiagh cullee chabbil[11] as garmad cohionnee ta ymmydit lesh moiraghyn torragh.[12] Ta'n quaaghys çheet magh ass cosoylaght dean y dudou (agh chan jantys ny soylley yn dudou) rish y haramaki Shapaanagh. 'Sy 19oo eash, v'eh er ny hyndaa myr "moggaid chleeau" ny "corsaid" Sheenagh.[7] Ta'n dudou er ny hyndaa keayrtyn myr "apryn" chammah[9][13][14][15] ny "brat chleeau"[5] kyndagh rish e hoylley cosoyllagh.
Shennaghys
[reagh | reagh y bun]Ta lhiasaghey bunneydagh y dudou treishtit da Yang Yuhuan, y sheshey stoamagh lesh Impir Xuanzong veih Tang va coontit myr nane jeh Kiare Aalidyn y Çheen impiroil.[16] Ec y traa shen, va'n dudou enmyssit hezi (訶子), agh ta scansh y vuilg myr moir foalley as qi yn chorp ayns lheeys Sheenagh tradishoonagh[17] dy vel lhiegganyn eigsoylagh jeh'n o-lheiney ry-gheddyn as ad cho shenn as y gharmad Qin xièyī (t 褻衣, s 亵衣) va gollrish cassag.[18] Haink y dudou kiart dy ve feer chadjin fo reeraghtys Ming goaill toshiaght ayns ny 1300yn meanagh[13] mysh traa yn Ghorley Doo.[15][n 3] Va lhiegganyn jeh ceaut lesh lhiennoo woirrin 'sy Çheen vean-eashagh derrey v'ad tree bleeaney d'eash.[8] V'ad ceaut lesh lhiennoo irryn. Va gruaie lheeys y dudou er ny haishbyney lesh goaill stiagh poagaghyn beggey dy reayll jinshar, musk, ny lossreeyn elley dy chur rish ardjaghey slaynt qi yn vuilg.[20] Ta Sheenee credjal dy vel y cummey jiarg gardey noi drogh spyrrydyn ayns craueeaght heayagh y Çheen.[3]
Chur y dudou rish fassanyn cosoyllagh elley buill elley 'syn Aishey Hiar, goaill stiagh y yem Vietnamagh as y haragake Shapaanagh. 'Sy Çheen hene, t'eh foast coontit myr guibbyl tradishoonagh dy eaddeeyn Sheenagh,[21][22] ayns eaddeeyn bannish tradishoonagh er lheh.[23] Dy cadjin, ansherbee, huitt y dudou ass foayr roish jerrey ny Qing myr ayrn jeh'n ghleashaght dy yannoo yn çheer noa-emshiragh, as haink corsaidyn as coodee cheeagh ayns aghtyn Oarpagh stiagh 'syn ynnyd echey.[24]Lurg jeihaght dy arganeyssyn theayagh, va ymmyd ny dudouyn son lheanaghey keeaghyn jeant anleighalagh, goaill toshiaght ayns Guangdong 'sy vlein 1927.[25] Ta'n caghlaa fassangh shen er ny ve kianglt rish aase ayns earroo adsyn va surral kanghyr-keeagh ec y traa cheddin.[15] Haink dudouyn dy ve coontit myr guibbyl dy fassan y Theihll Heear 'sy vlein 2000, tra va lhiegganyn jeh'n chiaddey Sheenagh er ny haishbyney ayns çhaglymyn arree lesh Versace,[26][n 4] Versus,[27] as Miu Miu.[28] Veih shen, haink eh dy ve coontit myr stay vooar lesh kiaddeyderyn fassan fo cleayney Sheenagh.[29] Ren y lhiasaghey shen cur cummaght da mraane Sheenagh ennagh, goaill stiagh Zhang Ziyi,[16] dy cheau yn dudou myr guibbyl dy eaddagh mooie,[21][14][30] ga dy vel ram Sheenee vie-eashit creoie noi'n lhiasaghey shen.[3][31]
Kiaddey
[reagh | reagh y bun]Ta kiaddey yn dudou jeant ass un pheesh dy eaddagh kiare-uillinagh, rhomeagh, ayns cummey lossain ta coodaghey ny keeaghyn as y bolg choud's t'eh sniemmit rish y wannal as y vouin lesh strengyn kianglt.[21] Myr shen, she sorçh dy vaare-eaddagh holter t'eh. Ta mraane berçhagh gymmydey sheeidey, snaie, ny brocaid choud's ta ny boghtyn gymmydey cadee.[24]
Dy cadjin, t'ad jiarg, jiarg-bane, as eayney er daah as t'ad er nyn mroaidrail lesh blaaghyn, follicanyn, ny laaghyn Mandragh.[21] Ayns ny laaghyn hie shaghey, ren kiaddaghyn cadjin goaill stiagh craitnagyn (homofoynagh rish "maynrys" 'sy Çheenish), peitshagyn ("foddey-heiltys"), guavaghyn (hass ny rassyn er son y troaraght), as dreaghyn mie.[24]
Fo ny Ming as ny Qing, va dudouyn coontit myr fo-eaddagh ny lomarcan as v'ad ymmydit dy lheanaghey keeaghyn ny mraane,[21] gollrish corsaid bog.[16] Ren lughtyn-thie berçhagh ymmydey driaghtyn ooha, argid, as airhey ayns ynnyd snaie sheeidey.[24] Ny kied dudouyn, she kiare-chuilleigyn v'ad agh, roish ny Qing, v'ad er nyn jyndaa myr cummey daiman, anchoodaghey ny smoo jeh ny geayltyn.[24]
Ta lhiegganyn eigsoylagh ayn as colliar oc, t'er ny injillaghey mygeayrt y chione. Foddee dudouyn fo cleayney fassan y Theihll Heear ve jeant as eaddagh elley, goaill stiagh liare ny eaddeeyn trooid-hoilshagh.[21]
Jeeagh er neesht
[reagh | reagh y bun]- Apryn
- Baare-eaddagh holter, lhieggan eaddagh mooie yn Theihll Heear
- Cammee as bouin, lhiegganyn fo-lheiney yn Theihll Heear
- Choli, garmad Injinagh gollrish bouin dirree magh ass y stanapatta ny bann cleeau veih'n 6oo eash RC
- Haramaki, y lhieggan lheeys Shapaanagh
- Lheiney gyn muinneel
- Shennaghys coodee cheeagh
- Yếm, y lhieggan Vietnamagh
Noteyn
[reagh | reagh y bun]- ↑ 'Sy Çheenish noa-emshiragh, t'eh ry-akin myr yīdōu (衣兜) er y chooid smoo, fockle ta meanal poagaghyn ayns eaddeeyn.
- ↑ 'Sy 19oo eash, va dudou as doudu tessen-lettyrit dy mee-reiltagh myr tu-teu as teu-tu.[2][7]
- ↑ Ta cummey noa-emshiragh y dudou ry-akin ayns filmyn Sheenagh dy mee-emshiragh er feie shennaghys y Çheen, myr sampleyr 'sy fillym The Banquet lesh Feng Xiaogang 'sy vlein 2006 va bunnit 'syn eash Tang.[19]
- ↑ Ren Vogue soilshaghey ny peeshyn shen myr "bloosyn bussal condragh."[26]
Imraaghyn
[reagh | reagh y bun]- ↑ Baxter, William Hubbard III; et al. (2014), Baxter–Sagart Old Chinese Reconstruction, Ver. 1.1 (PDF), Ann Arbor: Ollooscoill Michigan, dg. 23, er ny hashtey veih yn lhieggan bunneydagh (PDF) er 2022-04-28, feddynit magh er 2026-01-13.
- ↑ a b c Williams, S. Wells (1889), "兜", A Syllabic Dictionary of the Chinese Language, Arranged According to the Wu-Fang Yuen Yin, with the Pronunciation of the Characters as Heard in Peking, Canton, Amoy, and Shanghai, Shanghai: American Presbyterian Mission Press.
- ↑ a b c Zhao Jianhua (28 February 2013), The Chinese Fashion Industry: An Ethnographic Approach, London: Bloomsbury Academic, dg. 1, ISBN 9781847889355.
- ↑ Pitts-Taylor, Victoria (2008), "Breasts", Cultural Encyclopedia of the Body, Vol. I, Westport: Greenwood Publishing, dg. 46, ISBN 9780313341458.
- ↑ a b Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., "doudu", The Complete Costume Dictionary, dg. 91.
- ↑ Gao Wanlong; et al. (2012), A Handbook of Chinese Cultural Terms, Trafford Publishing, dg. 51, ISBN 9781466920057.
- ↑ a b Williams, S. Wells (1889), "'肚", A Syllabic Dictionary of the Chinese Language, Arranged According to the Wu-Fang Yuen Yin, with the Pronunciation of the Characters as Heard in Peking, Canton, Amoy, and Shanghai, Shanghai: American Presbyterian Mission Press.
- ↑ a b Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (2014), "Children's Clothing, Girls", World Clothing and Fashion, Vol. I, M.E. Sharpe, ISBN 9781317451679.
- ↑ a b c Liu, Eric T.; et al. (2014), Translating Chinese Culture, Abingdon: Routledge, dg. 68, ISBN 9781317932482.
- ↑ "Dudou", Cultural China, Shanghai: Shanghai Xinhong Cultural Development, er ny hashtey veih yn lhieggan bunneydagh er 2016-05-03, feddynit magh er 2016-05-08.
- ↑ "ˈbelly-band, n.", Oxford English Dictionary, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1887.
- ↑ Whitmore, Elizabeth (2010), "Health: Belly Bands", How Stuff Works.
- ↑ a b Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (2014), "Brassieres", World Clothing and Fashion, Vol. I, M.E. Sharpe, ISBN 9781317451679.
- ↑ a b Farrer, James; et al. (2015), Shanghai Nightscapes, Chicago: University of Chicago Press, dg. 198.
- ↑ a b c Harding, Fred (2006), Breast Cancer, Aylesbury: Tekline Publishing, dg. 284, ISBN 9780955422102.
- ↑ a b c "History of Dudou", Chinese Fashion, er ny hashtey veih yn lhieggan bunneydagh er 2007-08-23, feddynit magh er 2026-01-13.
- ↑ Maciocia, Giovanni, The Foundations of Chinese Medicine, 3d ed., Edinburgh: Elsevier, dg. 194.
- ↑ "Secrets of Women's Underwear in Ancient China", China Culture, Ministry of Culture, 2003, er ny hashtey veih yn lhieggan bunneydagh er 2008-08-30, feddynit magh er 2016-05-05.
- ↑ Chen Yachen (2012), "The Chinese Hamlet's Two Women and Shakespeare's Chinese Sisters: Qing Nü and Wan'er in The Banquet", Women in Chinese Martial Arts Films of the New Millennium, Plymouth: Lexington Books, dg. 120, ISBN 9780739139103.
- ↑ "The Ancient Art of Women's Underwear", China Daily, 4 March 2011.
- ↑ a b c d e f Xu Xiaomin (20 Mean Souree 2000), "Do You Dare to Wear a Dudou?", Shanghai Star, er ny hashtey veih yn lhieggan bunneydagh er 11 Jerrey Souree 2007, feddynit magh er 5 May 2016.
- ↑ Mandarin Factory
- ↑ Bao Jiemin (1994), Marriage among Ethnic Chinese in Bangkok, Berkeley: University of California Press, dg. 155.
- ↑ a b c d e Lu Chang (30 Jerrey Fouyir 2003), "Keeping Abreast of Change", Shanghai Star, er ny hashtey veih yn lhieggan bunneydagh er 22 Luanistyn 2007, feddynit magh er 5 Boaldyn 2016.
- ↑ French, Paul; et al. (2010), Fat China, London: Anthem Press, ISBN 9780857289780.
- ↑ a b "Spring 2000 Ready-to-Wear: Versace", Vogue, 2000.
- ↑ "Spring 2000 Ready-to-Wear: Versus Versace", Vogue, 2000.
- ↑ "Spring 2000 Ready-to-Wear: Miu Miu", Vogue, 2000.
- ↑ Eceiza, Laura (2009), "Blanc de Chine", Atlas of Fashion Designers, Beverly: Rockport Publishers, dgn. 107–111, ISBN 9781616736057.
- ↑ Farrer, James (2002), Opening Up: Youth Sex Culture and Market Reform in Shanghai, Chicago: University of Chicago Press, dg. 311.
- ↑ Qiu Xiaolong (2009), The Mao Case, New York: Minotaur Books, dg. 2, ISBN 9780312538743.